Bay Boats

Fish-ability, stable, and performance....

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Flats Boats

The Ultimate Tournament Boat!

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Pre-Owned Boats

Pre-Owned Lake and Bay’s

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Performance Data

Team Lake and Bay

Guides

Construction

“Fastest Boat on The Tour”
“Driest Boat i Have Ever Been In”
“It Can go Anywhere”
“The Most Economical to Operate”
“Best Ride i have Ever Had”

Mercury Outboards
Yamaha Outboards
Suzuki Outboards
Minimal Depreciation and High Resale Value
Lake and Bay Only Sells Factory Direct
Our Boats are Custom Built to Order
Electronics and Accessories are up to you!
Every Lake and Bay stays in the mold for 2 Weeks.
Every part is Bonded and Cured before pulling out of the mold
If there is a special color that you want we can special order it. We can also match it from a sample.
When storing your boat for the winter or summer best advise of things to do.

  • Put a fuel stabilizer/Conditioner in your fuel tank and run the engine to ensure that the treatment is in all areas that hold gas.
  • Turn battery switches off or disconnect your battery
  • Remove all live well and drain plugs
  • Jack the trailer up so the bow is up for draining purposes
  • Open or Vent all hatches to keep from getting mildew or moisture trapped

  • Test them regularly to ensure that the engine stops when the kill cord mechanism is operated
  • Make sure that the cord is in good condition
  • Always attach the cord to the driver, ideally before the engine is started, but certainly before the engine is put in gear
  • When changing drivers it is strongly recommended that you should turn the engine off before transferring the kill cord from one driver to the other. The engine should only be restarted when the kill cord has been securely attached to the new driver.

New front built in insulated cooler
Front cushion recessed seating
Front bow live well design
Composite key west hard t-top design
Contour cut out to fit rods on side of console

  • Leaving your boat in a slip doesn’t have to leave your brain tied in knots — here’s how.
  • Tying up at a dock is one of those techniques that’s most elegant when it’s done simply. The trick is to get the fewest number of dock lines serving the greatest number of functions. And doing that means paying attention to three things: Strong points, a good hitch, and the right combination of lines.
  • For a short stop alongside a dock, you should be able to tie up with just three lines (spring lines have a disadvantage in places with tidal ranges or even wakes from passing boats: being so short, they limit a boat’s vertical motion. Even stepping on the gunwale to get out of a small boat may strain a breast line. The best combination of dock lines is typically at least one spring line, plus a bow line and a stern line. If you run the bow line forward and the spring line aft, you’ll limit the boat’s motion in both directions yet still allow for some motion up and down. Likewise, run the stern line aft from the side of the boat farthest from the dock. This will limit both transverse and forward motion. Place good fenders between the boat and the dock, then tension up the lines. For heavier weather and longer stays, add a second spring line in the opposite direction of the first.
  • Tying up in a slip typically works best with four dock lines: two bow lines, two stern lines. As for leaving room for the water to move up and down, the same methods still apply. To avoid your boat sliding under a dock or onto a floating platform add spring lines. run your bow lines forward a bit and cross your stern lines. This way, all the lines are working together to limit motion forward, aft, and side to side.